| FINISH |
A newly applied finish on your floor may appear to be too glossy at first, but keep in mind that as the floor ages and reaches it's maximum durability that the "Sheen" will "Die Down". |
| MOVING OF FURNITURE |
No furniture for 24 - 36 hours. Place the furniture down, do not scoot or slide it. Curing of the floor takes thirty days to cure good and hard. Take extra care for the first days until cured. When moving a refrigerator onto the finished floor use quarter-inch plywood or masonite to protect the floor, heavy cardboard does not always allow enough protection. |
| AREA RUGS |
No area rugs for one month to allow the floor to cure in all areas. Air flow helps the curing process. |
| FLOOR PROTECTORS |
Acme Floor has available in the office "Scoot-N-Glides" made for wooden chair legs, to protect the wood flooring from being scratched. Also available is a thick felt for other types of chair legs. "Scoot-N-Glides" need to rest flat on the floor for optimum protection. If chair legs are cut at an angle, the glide can do damage to the floor. |
| SWEEPING |
For maximum life and wearability of the floor finish, keep the floor as clean as possible of all substances that can scratch floors such as sand, gravel, etc. This can be accomplished by sweeping daily with a floor brush sweeper attachment, dust mopping, or broom sweeping. |
| MOPPING |
Harsh alkali cleaners may damage the finish and/or floor, and therefore should not be used. After four weeks of curing of the finish, clean the floors with a slightly dampened mop using one gallon of lukewarm water with one cup white vinegar. A small area at a time, wiped dry as you go, will give the best results. Do not allow water to stand on the floor and use as little water as possible. The "water/vinegar solution" will remove accumulated grease and sticky substances not removed by dry dust mopping or vacuuming. Remove food spills and other various liquids as quickly as possible with a dry or damp cloth. |
| WATER AND WOOD |
NEVER use excessive amounts of water on wood floors. Even though urethane products are very water resistant, water can seep into open cracks, causing the finish to break loose from the wood, resulting in white spots, chipping or peeling. Remember that water is an enemy of wood flooring, so do not use excessive amounts. |
| SPECIAL CLEANING |
To remove grease, rubber heal marks or similar stubborn stains which might remain after a normal cleaning with "vinegar/water solution", wipe with a cloth dampened with mineral spirits. Make sure that excessive amounts of fluids used for cleaning are not deposited on the floor. (Use rubber gloves) |
| WAX OR MURPHEY'S OIL SOAP |
Do not wax floors - no paste wax - no Endust - and no Murphey's Oil Soap. Once the finish has been applied to the wood there is a protective coating over the wood, and these products will lay on top of the finish dulling the appearance and catching the dirt. They will keep an additional coat of finish from being applied whenever it is necessary. |
| SCUFFS AND SCRATCHES |
Bear in mind that all surfaces, even concrete, scratch. Toe-nails on dogs can have a scratching effect on the finish, so be careful to keep the toe-nails trimmed. Rubber sole shoes on a "fresh finish" can also leave scuffs. Should you have a scratch in the floor, do not attempt to repair the scratch. First, call our office so that we can determine the best course of action. |
| HIGH-HEEL MARKS |
Since wood is a product of mother nature, a high degree of pressure from a concentrated point like a high heel can crush the wood fibers leaving a "small indention" in the floor. The quality of the finish has no bearing as far as the strengthening the wood fibers. |
| EXPANSION CRACKS |
The weather plays a part in this area. Since the wood is susceptible to the humidity in the air, natural wood fibers will pull in moisture, causing the wood to expand in the spring and summer months. During the winter months when the house is dry, there will be a "shrinking" effect in the width of the boards. A humidifier will help stabilize this condition. Wood floors need to be able to expand and contract with temperature and humidity. "Expansion cracks" from summer to winter are a natural trait of wood floors. |
| CUPPING OF BOARDS |
Should the individual boards "cup" at the edges, this is a sign of damage from an outside source such as a leaking sink, a back door threshold, a refrigerator water line, etc. The floor will appear to have a "washboard" effect. Although you may not see visible signs of water, the wood will act as a sponge and soak up moisture in a capillary manner through the grain.
| 1. Severe Cases of Water Damage: |
Boards must be replaced, area resanded and finished. |
| 2. Average Water Damage: |
Boards allowed to dry for 4 to 5 weeks, resand and refinish. |
| 3. Slight water damage: |
Area allowed to dry, cupping may recede. | |
| ADDITIONAL COATS OF FINISH |
Floors can be reconditioned with an additional coat of finish, if it has not been waxed, and "water/vinegar solution" has been used on a regular basis. Wax will keep an additional coat of finish from adhering to previous coats. |
| PROTECTION FROM OTHER SUBCONTRATORS |
Should a painter or other subcontractor do any touch-up work after a floor has been finished, be sure to have him put down drop cloths. |
